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Dinner led to dance,
and dance led to Danish.
My parents rumbaed through my Brooklyn childhood.
They were deaf. And when they danced after supper to the music of
Xavier Cugat, they turned up the volume to feel the rhythms through
the floorboards. They had met at a dance for the deaf at which my
father, Danny London, a classy featherweight boxer, a title contender,
had been the guest of honor. My mother, Muriel, in her school albums,in
the space reserved for "Hero," had already written his
name. In the midst of this music, Danny would blurt out "Muriel,
coffee, coffee, coffee." Dinner
led to dance, and dance led to Danish.
So
begins the Mrs. London's Baking Book
which I hope to write one of these days. I've included this paragraph
because Danish and I go a long way back. Yes, it was our after-dinner
dessert, though we had it mornings on weekends. Danish goes by many
names and I have a number of stories to tell along the way, but
as an apprentice in Manhattan in the early seventies I first learned
how to make Danish at William Greenberg Jr., Desserts and at Eclair
Pastries. My favorite Danish, however, was at Patisserie Dumas,
also in Manhattan. Theirs, I thought, was the flakiest.
Our
Danish is all at once rich, light and flaky.
Our own yeast-risen Pecan Wreath, however, is the epitome of the
weekend coffee-cake.
We make it daily, but we sell a lot more on the weekends, the more
indulgent days of the week. Our Danish is all at once rich, light
and flaky. This Pecan Wreath is filled with ground pecans, rum-soaked
raisins and cinnamon sugar. It's hand-braided and the surface is
studded with pecan halves. It's really wonderful. It can serve as
breakfast itself or as a delicious accompaniment to coffee or tea.
And yes, my dad did, in fact, dunk his Danish. But you know, the
French too, do their share of morning dunking. You should see what
gets sloshed in those big bowls of café au lait.
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